updated July 9th, 2003

CAMBODIAN STIR FRY with PORK and SQUASH

Serves 4

1 pound fresh ham, or pork tenderloin, or rolled pork loin roast, cut into bit sized rectangles, or seitan
1 winter squash peeled and cubed
1 onion, cut into thin wedges
3 cloves garlic minced
1 head bok choy, chopped into large bits
fish sauce to taste, or use tamari soy sauce instead
1 tsp. sugar
freshly ground black pepper to taste
oil for frying

Prepare and chop all ingrediants. In a large heavy skillet, heat the oil until very hot, and fry the pork until nicely browned, remove the pork from the pan and set aside.
Add more oil to the pan, add the squash and fry for five minutes, cover and lower heat, cook for five minutes or less until the squash is just barely tender. Remove cover, raise heat back up to high and cook another minute or two. Remove from pan.
Add a bit more oil to the pan if needed, and fry the onion until tender but not brown. Remove from pan.
Add a 1/2 cup of water to the pan and deglaze, scraping all the brown bits up from the bottom of the pan. When the water is simmering briskly and the bottom of the pan is clear, add the bok choy and
the garlic and simmer for a few minutes. Add the pork, squash and onion, and fold them in gently. Add a tablespoon or more of fish sauce, and a good healthy grinding of pepper and taste for seasoning. Serve over jasmine rice.


JAPANESE COLE SLAW WITH DAIKON RADISH
Adapted from Food and Wine magazine

Dress the salad just before serving to keep the vegetables crisp.

Serves 8

2 tablespoons sesame seeds
1 1/2 T. fresh lemon juice
1 1/2 T. tamari or soy sauce
1 1/2 T. vegetable oil
1 1/2 tsp. toasted sesame oil
1/4 small red cabbage, finely shredded (2 cups)
1/4 medium napa cabbage, finely shredded (2 cups)
6 carrots, grated (2 cups)
1/4 pound daikon radish, peeled and grated (2 cups)
Salt and freshly ground pepper

In a small skillet, toast the sesame seeds, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk the lemon juice with the soy sauce, vegetable oil and sesame oil.

In a large bowl, toss the red cabbage with the napa cabbage, carrots and daikon. Add the dressing, season with salt and pepper and toss to coat. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve.


SPICY DAIKON SOUP
Adapted from The Elephant Walk Restaurant

This recipe comes from what is possibly the only cookbook of Cambodian recipes published in the U.S. The food is something between Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, very fresh and delicious, not as spicy. Few of the recipes in the book are meatless: I've included vegetarian alternatives.

Serves 4

8 cups water
1 tsp. salt
1 pound pork spareribs, cut across the bone into 1-inch pieces, then cut between the bones or substitute seitan cut into chunks
3 garlic cloves, smashed
6 fresh shiitakes, sliced into strips or dried black mushrooms, soaked in warm water for 15 minutes and drained, and cut into bite sized pieces.
1 pound daikon, peeled, cut in half lenghtwise, and sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick
3 tablespoons fish sauce (substitute tamari or soy sauce) or to taste
1 T. dried shrimp, rinsed and drained or 1/4 pound fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined or 2 medium zucchini cut into large but still bite-sized pieces
1 tsp. sugar
1/4 tsp freshly ground black pepper (or substitute something spicier)
1 scallion cut into 1-inch pieces
cilantro sprigs for garnish

Bring the water and salt to a boil in a large stockpot.
Add the ribs or seitan and the garlic, return to a boil, skim (if using the ribs), lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, for 25 to 30 minutes. If you're using fresh shiitakes, add them now.

Add the dried mushrooms, daikon, fish or soy sauce, dried shrimp if you're using them (save the fresh shrimp or zucchini for adding later), and the sugar, and cook until the daikon is almost tender, about 12 minutes more.

Stir in fresh shrimp or zucchini if you're using it, and simmer for another two to three minutes. When the shrimp is bright pink, or the zucchini is bright green, and the zucchini and daikon are tender, add the scallion and black pepper and serve with rice.


CAULIFLOWER AND POTATO DISH WITH INDIAN SPICES

Serves 5 to 6

1 pound potatoes, peeled and cut into rounds about 1/4-inch thick
vegetable oil or ghee for frying
1 medium cauliflower, about 2 pounds, trimmed and separated into flowerets
1 tsp. crushed or ground cumin seeds
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/8 tsp. cayenne or paprika
1/2 tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. salt
1 cup fresh plain yogurt or sour cream, at room temp.
parsley sprigs for garnishing

Rinse the sliced potatoes in cold water, rubbing the pieces between your hands to remove the starch. Pat them dry with paper towels.

Pour in enough oil to half fill a deep frying pan, and heat until about 375 degrees F., or until a piece of bread will bounce quickly back to the surface when dropped into the hot oil. The oil should not be smoking.
Divide the potatoes into two batches, unless your pan is very large, and fry them, a batch at a time, until golden brown (about 10 minutes). Be very careful when you add the potatoes to the oil, sliding them in rather than dropping them, so that you don't splash hot oil on yourself.

Remove the slices with a slotted spoon or wire skimmer and drain on paper-towels. Then fry the cauliflower pieces until tender and golden brown. Keep them warm in the oven at low heat.

When all the vegetables are fried and still warm, put them in a large bowl, sprinkle with the cumin seeds, black pepper, cayenne or paprika, turmeric and salt. Gently toss the veggies to coat with the spices. Fold in the yogurt or sour cream, garnish with the parsley and serve immediately.


CURRIED CAULIFLOWER AND POTATOES
Adapted from The Art of Indian Vegetarian Cooking

Serves 5 or 6

2 hot green chilies, stemmed, seeded and cut lengthwise into long slivers
1/2 inch of scraped fresh ginger root, finely minced
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1/2 tsp. brown mustard seeds
4 T. ghee or a mix of vegetable oil and unsalted butter
3 medium potatoes, about a pound, peeled and cut into spears
1 medium cauliflower, trimmed and cut into bite-sized flowerets
2 medium red or green tomatoes, quartered
1/2 tsp. turmeric
2 tsp. ground coriander
1/2 tsp. garam masala (available at the Stevens Point Area Co-op)
1 tsp. jaggery or brown sugar
1 1/4 tsp. salt
3 T. coarsely chopped fresh coriander or parsley
lime or lemon wedges (optional)

Combine the chilies, ginger, cumin seeds and mustard seeds in a small bowl. Heat the ghee or oil-butter mix in a large (nonstick if you've got it) saucepan over mederately high heat. When it is hot but not smoking, pour in the combined seasonings and fry until the mustard seeds turn gray, sputter and pop. Drop in the potatoes and cauliflower and stir-fry for 4-5 minutes, or until the vegetables pick up a few brown spots.

Add the tomatoes, turmeric, coriander, garam masala, sweetener, salt and half of the fresh herb. Stir well, cover, and gently cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. You may want to sprinkle in a few tablespoons of water if the vegetables stick to the bottom of the pan, but stir gently to avoid mashing or breaking them. Serve with the remaining fresh herb and garnish with lemon or lime wedges, if desired.


ROASTED VEGETABLES

Serves 4 to 6

1 pound small potatoes, cut into 3/4-inch dice
1 large (about 1 pound) celery root (celeriac), peeled and cut into 3/4-inch dice
4 medium parsnips (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into 3/4-inch dice
4 medium carrots (about 1 pound), peeled and cut into 3/4-inch dice
4 shallots, peeled and quartered
2 red bell peppers, seeded and cut into 3/4-inch dice
5 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons chopped rosemary or thyme leaves, or a combination.

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large bowl, combine potatoes, celery root,
parsnips, carrots, shallots, bell peppers, olive oil, salt and pepper and
toss. Spread vegetables in a single layer over sheet pans and roast,
stirring often, until tender and well browned, about 40
to 45 minutes. Sprinkle with the garlic and herbs, toss and roast for
2 minutes more.

Remove from the oven and serve.

Variation: Toss the roasted vegetables with your favorite spaghetti sauce and
ladle it all over a bed of polenta. Top with fresh mozzarella and parmesan or
fontina cheese and asiago and bake just until the cheese is melted. Serves 6 to 8.


KALE WITH RAISINS

Serves 4 to 6.

1 pound kale
3 tablespoons oil
1 whole dried red hot chili
3 garlic cloves, lightly crushed and peeled but left whole
3 to 4 tablespoons raisins
2 cups vegetable stock
salt

Remove and discard the coarse stalks from the kale leaves, wash the
leaves well, and then cut them crosswise into very fine strips.

Put the oil and chili in a wide, medium pan and set over
medium-high heat. Now put in the garlic and stir, cooking just
until the garlic becomes fragrant. Add the raisins and stir once.
Put in the kale and stir a few times. Put in the stock and bring to a
boil. Cover, turn the heat down to low, and simmer 20 to 30 minutes, or
until the kale is tender. Uncover and if there is any liquid in the
bottom, turn up the heat to high and boil it away. Taste for salt. Stir
to mix, Remove the chili before serving.



THAI STEAMED CUSTARD IN PUMPKIN SHELL

Serves 4 to 6

3/4 cup thick coconut milk
1/2 cup sugar
3 eggs
a few drops rose water (optional)
1 medium size pumpkin or winter squash

Beat eggs slightly, add sugar. Mis with coconut milk and stir until
sugar dissolves, then add rose water.
Wash the squash well. If it's a large round one, cut a hole in the top
and remove all the seeds, etc. If it is a long straight one, cut off the
top and then cut a round hole into the center, where it's bulbous, to
remove seeds, leaving a shell of squash flesh.

Strain the custard and pour into the squash to come just to the top. Put
the squash in a dish that just fits it and put the dish in a steamer.
Steam for 1 hour or until a knife inserted in the center of the custard
comes out clean. Cool, chill and serve cut into slices, so that there
is a portion of custard surrounded by pumpkin. Run a knife around the
edge of each slice to remove skin. You might like to serve sweetened
coconut milk to pour over.


BREAD AND SQUASH SOUP

Serves 6.

2 pounds winter squash, peeled, seeded and cut into small pieces
8 to 10 cloves garlic, peeled
3 1/2 cups boiling water
salt
2 ounces stale bread, crusts removed, torn into small pieces
pepper
1/4 cup olive oil
parsley or fresh basil

Add the squash and the garlic to the salted, boiling water and cook,
covered, at a light boil, for 25 to 30 minutes or until the squash
is puree-soft. Throw in the bread, leave to simmer for a couple of
minutes longer, put the contents of the pan through a sieve or mill,
or mash well with a potato masher, taste for salt, grind in some
pepper, reheat, and stir in the olive oil at the moment of serving.
Soup may be garnished with finely chopped parsley or fresh basil
torn into tiny pieces.

Eggplant Custard

10 ounces mushrooms, minced
salt and pepper
pure olive oil*
1/2 lemon
2 large firm ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 1/2 pounds of eggplant (about two of the usual size)
2 eggs
1 cup milk
About 1/8 tsp. powdered saffron, dissolved in a couple tablespoons of boiling water (optional)

Saute the mushrooms, seasoned with salt and pepper, in couple of tablespoons of the oil, quite soon after chopping them, over a high flame until their liquid is evaporated. Squeeze in a squirt of lemon juice.

Stew the tomatoes, seasoned with salt and pepper, in two tablespoons olive oil until nearly dry, stirring in the garlic just a minute before removing from the heat, stirring to keep the garlic from burning.

Cut the eggplant into slices of from 1/3 to 1/2 inch thick. Heat 1/2 and inch of olive oil in a skillet and when it's hot, fry the eggplant until golden on both sides, and tender. Remove to drain on paper towels or brown paper bags, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Spread the mushrooms in the bottom of an oiled baking or gratin dish, arrange half of the eggplant slices overtop, spread with the tomato mixture, and put the rest of the eggplant on top. Beat the eggs with a whisk, whisk in the milk, salting lightly, then the dissolved saffron, and pour over the vegetables, lifting them gently here and there around the sides with a fork, letting the milk and eggs to get access to everything.

Bake at 375 degrees for 30 minutes or until the custard has only just set in the center.

*Pure olive oil is pricier than regular sunflower or corn oil (although not as costly as extra virgin olive oil), but in this case, and in the following recipe, it's a seasoning choice as well as a medium for frying.


Eggplant Gratin

1 1/2 pounds eggplants, sliced lengthwise into 1/2 inch slices, or, if large, sliced crosswise
pure olive oil

1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 T. olive oil
1 clove garlic minced
1 pound tomatoes, chopped
1/2 tsp. sugar
salt
small pinch of cayenne

4 ounces ricotta
1 egg
salt and pepper
1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan
1/2 cup heavy cream

Pepper
fresh basil leaves
another 1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan

Cook the eggplant in hot olive oil, until golden brown on both sides and tender. Drain on paper towels or paper bags, and add more oil to the pan between batches if needed.

Cook the onion in olive oil until soft and yellowed, but not browned. Add the garlic and tomatoes, add salt, sugar and cayenne, and cook over high heat, stirring and tossing, until bubbling well, and then lower to a simmer for 15 minutes or so, until the tomatoes liquid is almost completely reduced. Taste for salt.

Mash the ricotta with a fork, mixing in the egg, beat well. Salt and pepper and add enough parmesan to bring the mix to the consistency of a paste. Then stir in cream until a heavy but easily poured creamy consistency is achieved. Taste for salt.

Line the bottom of a gratin or baking dish with half of the eggplant, sprinkle with some pepper, tear the basil leaves into little bits and sprinkle them over the surface, sprinkle with some of the parmesan, and spoon the tomato mix over the surface. Gently put the remaining eggplants over all and spoon the cheese and egg mix over the entire surface. Sprinkle generously with the rest of parmesan and put into a hot oven (425 to 450), turning it down after 10 minutes to 375, cooking another 25 minutes or until the gratin has swelled all over and in the center, and it's colored a rich golden brown.

Serves 4.


Eggplant fans, deep fried, with Red Cabbage
Adapted from "The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean" by Paula Wolfert

2 eggplants
sea salt
1 cup pure olive oil
1 egg well beaten
1/8 cup water
flour for dredging

1/2 cup shredded red cabbage
5 cherry tomatoes or chopped garden tomato
1/4 cup chopped parsley
1/4 tsp. garlic, peeled and minced with salt
2 tsp. olive oil
1/2 tsp. cider vinegar

Peel a one inch wide continuous strip from one side of the eggplants' stems to the other side. Using long thin knife, make three slits, lengthwise, through each eggplant. Gently press down on each to create fans.

Put the eggplants in a nonreactive saucepan; cover with salted water and an inverted plate to keep them submerged. Bring to a boil and cook over medium high heat 7 to 10 minutes. Use a slotted spatula to transfer the eggplants to kitchen toweling and leave to drain. When cool, gently flatten each eggplant to express moisture. When cool, gently flatten each eggplant to express moisture.

Combine the cabbage, tomatoes, parsley, garlic, oil and vinegar. Set aside.

Slowly heat the oil in a 9 inch skillet to hot but not smoking. Beat the eggs with the water. Dredge the eggplants in flour, dust off the excess, and dip into the egg mixture. Fry, turning once, until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels. Serve hot or at room temperature with the prepared cabbage salad.


Eggplant Steamed in Tomato Sauce
Adapted from "The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean" by Paula Wolfert

About 1 1/2 pounds eggplant
3 cups water mixed with the juice of a lemon
1 tsp. olive oil
1 1/2 pounds ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cubed, with the juices reserved
juice of 1/2 lemon
salt
6 to 7 cloves of garlic, peeled
4 to 5 T. mild white wine vinegar
2 T. chopped parsley for garnish

Peel the eggplants and cut into 1 by 2-inch pieces. As you peel the eggplants, drop them into a bowl of the water mixed with lemon juice.

Drain the eggplants and place in a big skillet that you have a cover for. Add the olive oil, tomatoes, lemon juice, and 1/2 tsp. salt. Cover with a tight-fitting lid, and set to cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, shaking the pan from time to time.

Meanwhile, chop enough garlic to make one tablespoon. Sprinkle with salt and crush to a puree. Dilute the garlic with the vinegar and stir into the tomato sauce. If the pan juices are a little dry, add some of the reserved tomato juice. Cover and cook for another 10 minutes. Remove the skillet from heat without removing the cover. Allow to cool to room temp. Serve with a garnish of chopped parsley.

Variations: Add fried minced green chili peppers. Or, add fried chunks of italian green frying peppers.


Green Beans and Tomatoes in Olive Oil
Adapted from "The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean" by Paula Wolfert

Serve with a crusty hunk of bread and cheese.

1 1/2 pounds green beans, trimmed
1/4 cup olive oil
1 cup minced onion
salt to taste
1 tsp. sugar
1/3 cup tomato sauce
1 cup boiling water

Put all the ingredients into a heavy saucepan. Bring to a boil and boil like crazy for a minute. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook over low heat or in a 300 degree oven for 2 to 3 hours, or until most of the liquid has been absorbed. Serve at room temperature.


Green Beans with Cinnamon Flavored Yogurt Sauce
Adapted from "The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean" by Paula Wolfert

3/4 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1/4 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp. sugar
pinch of powdered saffron (optional)
salt
1/2 pound string beans, trimmed and broken into bite-sized pieces
4 T. unsalted butter*
3 scallions, chopped (1/2 cup)
1 small garlic clove, minced
2 T. chopped fresh dill
2 T. chopped mixed herbs such as summer savory, coriander, mint and tarragon
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Combine the yogurt, cinnamon, sugar and saffron, blend well. Set aside.

Bring a large pan of water with salt to a boil, and cook the beans 10 minutes, or until just tender; drain.

In a large skillet, melt one tablespoon of the butter over moderate heat. *Unsalted butter generally has a better, creamier flavor than salted butter.

Add the scallions and the garlic, cover and cook 2 minutes. Add the beans and the remaining butter, cover tightly, and reduce the heat to low. Cook until the beans are soft, about 10 to 15 minutes, depending upon their thickness. Remove from the heat and mix in the dill and other herbs. Season with salt and pepper. Add the yogurt mix and toss with the beans over low heat to blend the flavors. Serve warm or at room temp.

Serves 2 to 4


Stewed Potatoes with Tomatoes and Feta
Adapted from "The Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean" by Paula Wolfert

1 1/2 T. olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup tomato sauce
1 cup water
2 T. chopped parsley
salt and pepper
1 pound (4 medium) waxy potatoes, peeled and cut into 6 wedges
4 slices feta

In a deep sided skillet, heat the oil and saute the onion over moderate heat until soft and golden. Add the garlic, tomato sauce, water, parsley, and salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, add the potatoes, cover tightly, lower the heat, and cook 30 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender and the sauce is thickened. Serve warm or hot, with feta on the side, and with good crusty bread.


Potato Fritters
Adapted from "Simple French Food" by Richard Olney

1 pound potatoes, grated
1 rounded 1/4 cup flour
salt and pepper
1 large egg
1 1/2 T. olive oil (plus more for frying)

Sprinkle the potatoes with the flour and the seasonings, add the egg and oil, beat the egg with a fork, then stir thoroughly until the potatoes are in a suspension of well-blended batter.

Heat from 3/4 to 1 inch of pure olive oil in a large skillet until hot, but not smoking -- a drop of batter should sizzle at contact. Slip in a heaping teaspoonful of the potato mix. Stir the batter each time before taking up a new spoonful. Don't try to fry too many at once, and adjust the flame as needed to keep the oil from overheating (smoking) or cooling (when the fritters just sit there in a little sodden pile and don't dance about at all). When the undersides are deeply golden brown, carefully turn them over with the tines of a fork. A flat wire skimming spoon is a very practical tool to use to remove them from the oil. Drain on paper towels for a bit before serving them.


Curried Red Cabbage with Cranberry Juice
Adapted from "World Vegetarian" by Madhur Jaffrey

3 Tablespoons olive or peanut oil
1 tsp. whole cumin seeds
1/2 tsp. whole fennel seeds
2 medium onions, peeled and cut into thin half rings
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp. peeled and finely grated fresh ginger ( or a shake or three of ginger juice from The Ginger People, available at the Stevens Point Area Co-op -- this stuff is great. It tastes just like fresh ginger, and you know that I wouldn't use it if it didn't)
2 T. curry powder ( I like the curry powder from the above mentioned Co-op the best)
1 red cabbage or 1/2 of a very large red cabbage, cored and finely shredded
1 cup pure unsweetened cranberry juice*
1 cup vegetable or chicken stock
2 T. sugar
1 1/4 tsp. salt, more if the stock is unsalted

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Put the oil in a large, ovenproof, casserole-type pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, put in the cumin and fennel seeds. Stir for five seconds and put in the onions. Stir and fry for about five minutes, or until the onion pieces begin to brown at the edges. Put in the garlic and ginger. Stir and fry for another minute. Put in the curry powder. Stir and fry for just a bit. Put in the cabbage, cranberry juice, stock, sugar, and salt. Bring to a boil. Cover and bake in the oven for 1 1/4 hours, stirring now and then.

If you can't find unsweetened cranberry juice, you can use sweetened cranberry juice or cranberry apple juice, just eliminate the sugar from the recipe, or use only a pinch of it. Taste the cabbage halfway through the cooking and adjust to the sweetness that you like. The dish should be sweet/sour.

Serves 6 to 8.

SALMON with CREAMED CABBAGE
(Adapted from Simply French by Patricia Wells and Joel Robuchon)

By special request. We served this at the Cafe for our Valentine's Day Ooh La La dinner, which featured all French food and a husband and wife jazz duo. It was a wonderfully romantic evening.

The cabbage serves as a bed for a crisp-skinned panfried salmon fillet, and the recipe was requested by someone who had it there that night. If you'd rather, you could skip the salmon and just have the cabbage with the sauce. The sauce is very good on other things, as well. I've used it on roasted beef tenderloin sandwiches, and over boiled potatoes with good results. I expect it would be good with pork, with asparagus, and quite possibly carrots, too. Artichokes come to mind ...

Serves four as a main course, eight as a first course

1/2 large head green cabbage (about 1 1/2 pounds)
8 T. unsalted butter
sea salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 T. heavy cream
1 shallot, minced
1/4 cup dry white wine, such as a Chardonnay
1/4 cup best quality sherry wine vinegar
1 1/2 pounds fresh salmon fillet, skin attached but scaled, but into 4 or 8 equal portions
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
Fresh chives, snipped with a scissors, for garnish
Handful of whole chervil or flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

Trim the cabbage, discarding any tough outer leaves and the tough inner core. Slice by hand into very thin slivers. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, salt the water and add the cabbage. Cook for one minute to blanch. Remove the cabbage and drain well.

In a large skillet, combine the cabbage with 2 T. of the butter and cook over low heat, for two to three minutes. Season, cover, and cook until slightly wilted but still crunchy, about five minutes. Stir in five tablespoons of the cream and continue cooking until warmed through, one to two minutes. Set aside and keep warm.

Prepare the sauce: in a small saucepan, combine the shallot with one tablespoon of butter and a pinch of salt. Cook over low heat until soft and translucent, three to four minutes. Add the wine and vinegar and bring to a boil. Cook until reduced by two thirds, two to three minutes. Remove from the heat. Gradually whisk in the remaining one tablespoon cream and five tablespoons butter. Whisk until all the butter is incorporated and the sauce is smooth and creamy. Taste for seasoning. Transfer to the top of a double boiler, set over gently simmering water, cover loosely and keep warm over low heat.

Prepare the salmon: With a sharp knife, score the salmon in a crisscross pattern, cutting through the skin and just slightly cutting into the flesh. Generously season both sides of the salmon with salt and pepper.

In a large skillet, heat the oil over moderately high heat. When hot, place the salmon fillets, skin side down, in the skillet. Cook without turning until the skin is very crisp, 2 to 3 minutes (cooking time will depend on the thickness of the salmon). Turn the salmon over and cook it barely 30 seconds. Leave the salmon in the pan and remove it from the heat. The salmon will continue to cook as you dress the plates.

Spoon the cabbage into the center of 4 to 8 warmed dinner plates. Top with a slice of salmon, skin side up, and spoon the warm sauce around the cabbage. Garnish with herbs and serve immediately, with more of the sauce on the side.


GREEN BEAN AND TOMATO SALAD

1 1/2 pounds green beans, trimmed, cut into 2-inch pieces
3/4 cup chopped seeded tomatoes
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/4 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 cup halved cherry tomatoes

Cook beans in large pot of boiling salted water until tender-crisp, about 3 minutes. Drain. Transfer to bowl of icy cold water and cool. Drain well. Place in large bowl.

Mix next 5 ingredients in small bowl; stir into beans. Season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle parsley and cherry tomatoes over the top, and serve.


TOMATO SAUCE

3 pounds ripe plum tomatoes, cored, peeled, and seeded, or one 35-ounce can peeled Italian plum tomatoes, seeded and lightly crushed, with their liquid
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 small onion, finely chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped carrots
1/4 cup finely chopped celery
4 fresh bay leaves or 2 dried bay leaves
Salt
crushed red pepper

Crush the tomatoes as fine as possible in a bowl with a wire whisk or with your fingers.
In a medium-size nonreactive saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and simmer until soft and wilted. Add the carrots and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bay leaves, season lightly with salt and red pepper, and heat to a simmer. Simmer the sauce over medium-low heat, stirring every once in a while, until thickened, about 45 mintues. Remove the bay leaves. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper if necessary.
Makes about 3 cups; enough to sauce roughly 6 servings of pasta.


TOMATOES with GUACAMOLE

12 small (2- to 2 1/2-inch) tomatoes (not plum tomatoes)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh lime juice
3 firm-ripe Hass avocados
2 tablespoons finely chopped onion
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh cilantro
2 teaspoons minced fresh jalapeño chile, including seeds
1/2 teaspoon salt
Iceberg lettuce
Fresh cilantro sprigs

I know that iceberg lettuce is terribly out of style now, but sometimes I crave that crisp coldness of it. It's great with this recipe, in particular.

Cut a thin slice from stem end of each tomato and, using your finger, gently scoop out and discard the seeds. Carefully scoop out the pulp to form a tomato shell, then finely chop the pulp.

Drizzle the inside of each tomato shell with oil and lime juice and let stand at room temperature while making the guacamole.

Pit and peel the avocados and coarsely mash them with a fork in a bowl. Fold in the chopped tomato pulp, onion, cilantro, chile, and salt, then spoon into the tomato shells, mounding the guacamole. Halve the lettuce head and with a large knife, cut into very thin shreds. Serve immediately, on a bed of the shredded lettuce, scattering some thin strands of lettuce over the tops of the tomatoes.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.


TOMATO, GARLIC, AND POTATO FRITTATA

6 whole large eggs
2 large egg whites
1/2 cup finely grated parmesan (2 oz)
1/3 cup thinly sliced fresh basil
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 lb boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 cups grape tomatoes or halved cherry tomatoes

Whisk together whole eggs, whites, 1/4 cup parmesan, basil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon of pepper in a large bowl.

Preheat your broiler.

Cook the garlic in 1 tablespoon of oil in a 10-inch heavy ovenproof skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until golden, about 1 minute. Transfer garlic with a slotted spoon to a bowl.

Add potatoes to skillet and sauté over moderately high heat, stirring, until just tender, about 6 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to bowl with garlic.

Add 1 tablespoon oil and the tomatoes to the skillet and cook over moderately high heat, stirring, until tomatoes brown and skins split, about 4 minutes.

Add remaining tablespoon oil and the potatoes with the garlic to the skillet, spreading evenly, and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper.

Pour eggs over the vegetables and cook over moderately high heat, occasionally lifting up the cooked egg around the edges to let uncooked egg flow underneath, for about three minutes. Reduce heat to low and cook, covered, 5 minutes more (center will be moist).

Remove lid and broil frittata 5 to 7 inches from heat until set, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle top evenly with remaining 1/4 cup parmesan, then broil until cheese melts and frittata is golden brown, maybe 2 minutes more.

Slide onto a platter and cut into 4 wedges.

Note: If your skillet isn?t ovenproof, wrap handle with heavy-duty foil (or a double layer of regular foil) before broiling.

Makes 4 (light) servings.


BATTER FRIED ZUCCHINI

Sunflower or other vegetable oil (for deep-frying)

1 3/4 cups all purpose flour
1/4 cup cornstarch
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups chilled beer (dark beer, stout, recommended, but any beer will do)
4 medium zucchini, cut diagonally into 1/4-inch-thick slices

Pour enough oil into heavy large saucepan to measure 3 inches in depth. Heat oil over medium heat until deep-fry thermometer registers 350°F, or until the top of the oil quivers with the heat.

Mix flour, cornstarch, baking powder and salt in large bowl. Add the beer. Whisk until a smooth batter forms. Working in batches of 5 or 6 zucchini slices and using tongs, dip zucchini slices into batter and add to hot oil. Cook until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Using slotted spoon, transfer the zucchini to paper towels and drain. Sprinkle with salt and serve.

Serves 6 as an appetizer.


ZUCCHINI with BUTTERED PECANS

This is kind of froofy sounding, but it really is very good.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup pecans, coarsely chopped
1 lb zucchini, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices or matchsticks
1/2 cup grated parmesan

Melt butter in a large heavy skillet over medium heat, then add the pecans and cook, stirring, until golden brown and the butter is browned.

Add the zucchini with salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring frequently, until just tender, about 10 minutes.

Serve topped with the parmesan.

Makes 4 servings as a side dish.


ZUCCHINI SALAD with SOUR CREAM AND DILL

This recipe reminds me of the cucumber salad that my grandma used to make. In fact, you could use either zucchini or cucumber in this.

3/4 cup sour cream
1/2 cup thinly sliced sweet onion
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill leaves
1 teaspoon sugar
1 pound zucchini (about 2 large)

In a bowl stir together all the ingredients except zucchini, until they are combined well. Cut the zucchini crosswise into thin rounds and toss with the sour cream. mixture, and salt to taste, until combined well. Chill, covered, at least 1 hour and up to 8.

Serves 4 as a side dish.



FRESH TOMATO PIE
Adapted from a Laurie Colwin recipe

Double biscuit-dough crust

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
4 tsp baking powder
1 tsp. salt
8 oz. sweet unsalted butter
approx. 3/4 C buttermilk

Sift the flour with the baking powder and salt into a large bowl. Cut the butter into
little bits and rub it with the flour until the flour starts to look a little shaggy. You
can leave bits of butter up to the size of a pea or small dried bean.

Stir in the milk with a fork, until the dough gathers into a ball and cleans the side of
the bowl.

Knead 10 to 12 times with a light hand to bring the dough together.

Roll 1/2 the dough out and fit it into a 9-inch pie pan.

Filling:
2 pounds of peeled fresh tomatoes, excess
water gently squeezed out,* and sliced thin.
1 1/2 cups of grated sharp cheddar or mix of
sharp cheddar and monterey jack
1/3 C mayonnaise thinned with 2 tablespoons lemon juice
salt, pepper and fresh chives or basil

Spread one cup of the cheese across the bottom of the crust. The idea is that you're
going to make a watertight layer of cheese between the tomatoes and the crust.

Layer the tomatoes over the cheese and season with pepper. Wait with the salt.

Drizzle the mayo over the tomatoes and spread it out a bit if need be. Now sprinkle on the
salt, and top with snips of fresh herbs.

Sprinkle the remaining 1/2 cup of cheese over all.

Roll out the remaining crust and fit over the top, sealing the edges together. Cut lots of
steam slits.

Bake at 400 degrees for 25 minutes or until nicely browned and bubbly.

*Save this tomato water for broth or sauce or to cook green beans in or just chill it and
drink it with a bit of salt.


SPICY GARLIC POTATOES AND ZUCCHINI

2 lb small yellow-fleshed potatoes (preferably fingerling)
5 large garlic cloves, smashed with flat side of a large knife
31/2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3/4 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes
1 lb baby zucchini, halved lengthwise
1/2 teaspoon salt

Cover potatoes with salted cold water by 1 inch in a 4-quart saucepan, then simmer, uncovered, until just tender, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain in a colander and let stand until cool enough to handle, about 15 minutes. Peel potatoes and halve lengthwise.

Cook garlic in oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderate heat, stirring, until garlic is pale golden, about 2 minutes. Discard garlic, then stir potatoes and red pepper flakes into oil and sauté over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, until potatoes begin to turn golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes.

While sautéing potatoes, cook zucchini in a pot of boiling salted water until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes, then drain in a colander.

Transfer potatoes with a slotted spoon to a bowl, then add zucchini to oil in skillet and sauté over moderately high heat, stirring, until hot, about 1 minute. Return potatoes to skillet and stir in salt.

Makes 6 servings.


CORN ZUCCHINI AND TOMATO WITH PASTA

Two onions, thinly sliced
2 cloves garlic, minced or thinly sliced
4 tomatoes, cut into wedges
4 cups of zucchini that's been cut into big bite-sized pieces
three ears of fresh sweet corn
1/2 a pound of dried pasta (pennette or macaroni or other bite-sized pasta recommended)
salt and pepper

Start a generous amount of water to boil in a large kettle.

In a skillet with a generous dollop of olive oil saute onions until they are soft but not browned. Sprinkle with a bit of salt and add the garlic, stir a few times and cook only until the garlic becomes fragrant. With a slotted spoon scoop the onion and garlic out into a large bowl, trying to leave as much of the oil behind as you possibly can. Set the onions aside and return the pan to the heat.

Add more oil to the pan if necessary. Add the tomatoes to the pan and cook until they soften a bit and brown here and there around the edges. With a slotted spoon scoop the onion and garlic out into the container holding the onions, trying to leave behind as much of the oil and tomato juices as you possibly can. Set the onion and tomato mix aside and return the pan to the heat.
If necessary add more oil to the pan. Add the zucchini to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, until the zucchini is browned and cooked through. Add to the onions and tomatoes and scrape as much of the juice and bits in the pan out as you possibly can. Add 1/4 cup of water to the pan, swish it around over the heat, scraping up any bits that stick to the sides of the pan. When it begins to boil, add the corn and cook stirring for just a minute, then add it, any remaining water and the scraped up bits to the onion, tomato and zucchini mix.

Boil the pasta and toss with the vegetables. Grind a generous amount of pepper over the whole bit and serve.

Serves 4


CORN, ZUCCHINI, AND TOMATO PIE

3 cups fresh, or frozen and defrosted corn kernels
5 small zucchini, cut into matchstick pieces
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon fresh dill weed
2 tablespoons melted butter
3 to 4 vine-ripened tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch slices
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 cup dry bread crumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil

Preheat the oven to 375°. In a 13 by 9-inch ovenproof baking dish, combine the corn, zucchini, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1/2 teaspoon of pepper, the dill, and the melted butter, tossing to coat the vegetables. Cover the vegetable swith the tomatoes. Sprinkle with the remaining salt and pepper.

In a small bowl, combine the cheese and the bread crumbs. Sprinkle the mixture over the tomatoes and drizzle with the olive oil. Bake the pie for 30 minutes, or until the cheese is bubbling. Remove it from the oven, and let it stand for 5 minutes before serving.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.


WHOLE-WHEAT PASTA SALAD WITH GRILLED ZUCCHINI AND OLIVES

1 1/2 pounds vine-ripened tomatoes chopped
1/2 cup red onion, chopped fine
2 garlic cloves, minced and mashed to a paste with 1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
1/4 cup olive oil (preferabley extra-virgin) plus additional for brushing
zucchini
1 1/2 pounds zucchini, cut diagonally into 1/3-inch-thick slices
1 pound whole-wheat penne or other tubular pasta
2/3 cup Kalamata or other brine-cured black olives, chopped coarse
6 ounces ricotta salata or feta cheese, diced
1 1/2 cups whole small or torn large fresh basil leaves

In a large bowl gently stir together tomatoes, onion, garlic paste, vinegar, and 1/4 cup oil.

Brush one side of zucchini slices lightly with additional oil and season with salt and pepper. Heat a well-seasoned ridged grill pan over moderate heat until hot and grill zucchini, oiled sides down, in batches, brushing tops with more oil before turning, 1 to 2 minutes on each side, or until just tender but not soft. Transfer zucchini as grilled to a small bowl.

In a kettle of salted boiling water cook pasta until just tender and drain well. Add hot pasta to tomato mixture and toss well. Cool pasta slightly and stir in zucchini, olives, cheese, basil, and salt and pepper to taste. Pasta may be made 4 hours ahead and kept covered at room temperature.

Serve pasta warm or at room temperature.

Serves 6 as an entrée or 8 as a side dish.


SWISS CHARD TORT

SERVES 8

FOR THE PASTRY:
6 cups flour
6 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp. salt

FOR THE FILLING:
Salt
4 1/2 lbs. swiss chard, stems discarded
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
1 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano
1/4 cup ricotta
2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh oregano
2 tbsp. heavy cream
5 eggs
2 1/2 tbsp. butter

1. For pastry, place flour in a large bowl, make a well in the center, and add oil, salt, and 2 cups water. Mix thoroughly with a wooden spoon. When dough becomes too stiff to stir, knead on a floured work surface until smooth and soft, about 20 minutes (dough will be quite sticky). Divide into 6 equal balls, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

2. For filling, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add swiss chard and cook until tender, about 3?4 minutes. Drain in a colander and refresh under cold running water. Squeeze out excess water and finely chop.

3. Heat half of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add swiss chard and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Cool swiss chard slightly, and then add parmigiano-reggiano, ricotta, and oregano. Mix thoroughly, stir in cream. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

4. Preheat oven to 400°. Lightly grease a 10'' pie pan or 12'' pizza pan. On a floured surface, roll out a ball of dough as thinly as possible (about 13 1/2'' in diameter) and transfer to pan. Brush with a small amount of oil, then repeat with 2 additional balls of dough, layering them on top of the first one.

5. Spread swiss chard mixture on top of rolled dough, allowing a 2'' border around outer edge. Using the back of a spoon, make 5 indentations in the swiss chard mixture. Break an egg into the indentations, then top each with 1/2 tbsp. of butter. Season with salt and pepper.

6. Roll out remaining balls of dough as above, lay on top of filling, and brush each one with oil. Twist outer edge of dough together to seal. Bake torta until golden, about 45 minutes. Serve in wedges, warm or at room temperature.

Variation?Substitute 2 sheets (about 3 lbs.) thawed, frozen puff pastry for dough. Roll out 1 sheet, fill as in step 5, then roll out remaining sheet and place over filling and bake as in step 6.


LINGUINE WITH WALNUTS AND SWISS CHARD

SERVES 4

1 1/2 cups shelled walnut halves
2 lbs. Swiss chard
4 tbsp. walnut oil
5 shallots, peeled and minced
4 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. dried linguine
1/2 lb. Port-Salut or other semisoft cheese, coarsely grated

1. Place walnuts in a single layer in a large skillet. Toast over medium heat, turning once, for 10 minutes. Set aside. Trim chard leaves, discarding tough stems. Coarsely chop leaves and set aside.

2. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-low heat. Add shallots and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until shallots are soft, about 12 minutes. Add chard, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until chard has wilted, about 5 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until al dente, about 10 minutes. Drain, reserving about 1/4 cup of the cooking water. Add pasta and reserved cooking water to chard mixture. Stir in cheese and walnuts, adjust seasoning, and serve.

TORTA VERDE (Swiss Chard and Potato Pie)

This is a nice, mellow pie; perfect as a side to a spicier dish. I like to serve it with a Sicilian Sweet and Sour Tuna (recipe below), or similar flavor. When serving it as the main course, say, with a salad, I add some freshly snipped herbs like thyme, or sage, and I'd use scallions instead of the onions. I sometimes substitute a sharp cheddar for the feta. And mushrooms that have been quickly fried in a bit of oil over high heat until nice and brown make a nice addition, either in the pie or on the side.

SERVES 8

FOR DOUGH:
1 1/4 cups flour, sifted
1/2 tsp. salt
1 1/2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

FOR FILLING:
8-10 large Swiss chard leaves, washed, stems removed, leaves finely chopped
Salt
1 medium russet potato, boiled, peeled, and diced
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 tbsp. minced fresh parsley
1 1/4 cups crumbled mild feta
Freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs, lightly beaten
4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

1. For dough: Mix together flour and salt in a large bowl. Drizzle oil into flour, mixing with a fork, then sprinkle in up to 1/2 cup water, 1 tbsp. at a time, mixing until dough just holds together. Knead dough until smooth and elastic, then shape into a ball, cover with a damp cloth, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours.

2. For filling: Put chard in a colander, sprinkle with 1 1/2 tbsp. salt, toss to mix, and set aside to drain for 20 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, mix together potatoes, onions, parsley, and feta in a bowl and season to taste with salt and pepper. Press chard against colander with a wooden spoon to squeeze out juices. Discard juices and add chard to potato mixture. Mix in eggs and 2 1/2 tbsp. oil and set aside.

4. Preheat oven to 375°. Get out your 14'' round pizza pan, or a big jelly roll pan -- round is easier, but not essential. Divide dough into 2 balls, using two-thirds of dough for bottom crust and one-third for top crust. Roll out dough for bottom crust on a floured surface to about 15'' in diameter, then use round pizza pan, if you've got it, as a template to trim crust to form a 14'' round and put the crust in the pan. Or just put the bottom crust in the jellyroll pan. Evenly spread with filling, leaving 1'' of crust exposed around edge. Roll out dough for top crust to 13'' and place atop filling, allowing it to drape over edge of filling. Wet edge of bottom crust, fold in, and crimp to seal. Nine times out of ten, when I do this, the top crust ends up meeting the edges of the bottom crust. So I wet the inch around the filling before I put the top crust on, and seal that, sometimes folding the edges up into a pretty crimp, sometimes just pressing around the edges with my fingers or a fork.

Using a fork, pierce the surface of torta several times to allow steam to escape during cooking. Then use your fingertips to gently indent surface of pie and drizzle in a crisscross pattern with the remaining 1 1/2 tbsp. oil. Bake until golden, about 35 minutes.


SICILIAN SWEET and SOUR FRESH TUNA
Adapted from Marcella Hazen's Essentials of Italian Cooking
Serves 4

Fresh tuna fillets for 4, cut 1 inch thick, skin and dark blood-red sections trimmed off*
flour
4 T. olive oil
2 large red onions sliced very thin
salt
2 tsp. sugar
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 dry white wine
1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley
sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Heat 2 T. of oil in a large skillet and fry the onions over medium heat until soft. Add a pinch of salt and turn the heat up to medium high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are browned. While the onions are cooking, combine the sugar, vinegar and wine in a small bowl.
Spoon the onions out into a small dish and set aside.

Put the remaining two tablespoons of oil into the pan and reduce heat to medium. Dredge the tuna fillets in flour and fry for two or three minutes on each side. Season with salt and pepper. Pouring carefully around the edges of the fillets, so as not to make the flour-crisped tops soggy, add the vinegar and wine solution. Spoon the onions around the sides of the fillets as well. Cover, turn heat to high, and simmer for 3 or 4 minutes.

Remove lid, add most of the parsley, turn the fillets over two or three times, and remove to a warm platter. Pour the contents of the pan over the fillets and top with the rest of the parsley. Serve immediately.

*Good fresh tuna should be firm and smell fresh. If you detect a fishy or, worse, ammonia scent, don't buy it. This recipe will work with cod or halibut or any other firm fleshed fish as well.
When buying tuna, please request Albacore tuna, which is in abundant supply and is sustainably harvested. For more information about sustainably harvested fish, please visit http://www.seafoodchoices.org


BEET AND GREEN BEAN SALAD

3 T. fresh lemon juice
1 T. Dijon mustard
1 garlic clove, minced
3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons minced parsley
3/4 pound green beans
2 large red beets
3 cups mixed lettuces
1 medium cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded and sliced crosswise
4 large scallions, minced
1/2 green bell pepper, cut into strips

In a small bowl, combine the lemon juice with the mustard and garlic. Whisk in the oil in a thin
stream. Season with salt and pepper, then add the parsley.

In a large saucepan of boiling salted water, cook the beans until just tender, about 4 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beans to a colander and refresh under cold running water. Drain and pat dry. Cut the beans into 2-inch lengths. Add the beets to the boiling water and simmer over moderate heat until tender, about 40 minutes; drain. Peel and cut them into 2-inch chunks.

In a large bowl, toss the beans with the beets, lettuces, cucumber, scallions and bell pepper. Add a few tablespoons of the vinaigrette and toss to coat. Serve with the remaining vinaigrette on the side.


POTATO, RED PEPPER AND ZUCCHINI GRATIN

1 garlic clove
4 T. olive oil
2 pounds potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
2 tsp. fresh thyme
2 tsp. salt
2 red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into thin rings
4 small zucchini

Preheat the oven to 350 F.

Rub the bottom of a shallow gratin dish with the garlic. Grease the dish with about 1 tsp. of olive oil.

Layer half the potatoes in the bottom of the dish, overlapping the slices as necessary. Season lightly with the thyme and salt; drizzle with 1 T. of the olive oil. Add a layer of half of the red peppers and then half of the zucchini. Season again with salt and thyme; drizzle 1
T. of the oil over the vegetables. Repeat the layering and seasoning. Drizzle any remaining olive oil over the top.

Cover securely with a lid or with foil. Bake until the vegetables are very soft and tender, about 1 hour. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.


SLOW ROASTED TOMATOES

A nice dish to make as the nights get cooler...

8 ripe tomatoes, cored
1 1/2 T. coriander seeds, crushed
1/4 cup plus 2 T. olive oil
salt
freshly ground black pepper

Heat the oven to 250 F. Cut the tomatoes in half like grapefruits and seed them by scooping in with your fingers. Brush a non-reactive baking sheet with some of the olive oil and set the tomatoes on top, cut-sides up. Sprinkle with the coriander seeds and brush with 1/4 olive oil, allowing the oil to pool a bit in the tomatoes' seed cavities. Season with salt
and pepper.

Place the baking sheet with the tomatoes on the middle rack in the oven and bake for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, until the tomatoes begin to shrivel a bit and are soft and pulpy. Check them about every half hour. If, after an hour, you notice that they are drying out, turn the oven even lower.
You want the tomatoes to cook as slowly as possible so they concentrate in flavor yet remain soft. Drizzle with the reserved oil just before serving.


BASIL AND MINT STUFFED TOMATOES

8 very ripe small tomatoes, preferably with stems attached
2 1-inch thick slices of stale bread
1/2 T. chopped mint leaves
10-12 basil leaves, torn into small pieces
1 T. thinly sliced chives
2 shallots, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1/3 cup goat's milk cheese
2 T. olive oil, plus more for brushing and sprinkling
salt and pepper

Heat the oven to 350 F.
Cut a wide circle around the stems of the tomatoes, removing the "hats" and reserving them. Seed and gut the tomatoes. Discard the seeds, but save the flesh for another use (salad, toss them in the soup, whatever), Place the tomatoes and hats, flesh side down, on paper towels to dry for 30 minutes.

Make the stuffing: Cut the bread, including the crusts, into pea-sized crumbs. Place in a bowl and add the mint, basil, chives, shallot and garlic. Crumble in the cheese. Pour in the olive oil and mix gently, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. The mixture should be moist, not wet, and should be rather highly seasoned.

Fill the tomatoes with the stuffing, packing it into the cavities and mounding it about the openings. Brush a baking sheet with oil and place the tomatoes on the baking sheet, making sure they stand up straight so they won't fall over while baking. If needed, slice a thin layer from
the bottom of each tomato so it sits flat. Place the tomato hats on the baking sheet, flesh-sides down.

Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, just so that the stuffing is hot, but the tomatoes are not falling apart. Sprinkle the tomatoes and hats with olive oil and serve hot, with the hats placed slightly askew on top the of the tomatoes.


CONFETTI COUSCOUS with CHICKPEAS

2 T. olive oil
1/2 c. diced yellow summer squash
1/2 c. diced zucchini
1/2 c. diced red onion
1 clove garlic, minced
1 c. cooked garbanzos
1/2 tsp. ground cumin
1/2 tp. curry powder
1/2 tsp. dried red pepper flakes
1/2 tsp. salt

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
3 c. cooked couscous
1/4 c. chopped freshly parsley

Heat the oil in skillet, and saute the squash, zucchini, red onions, and garlic until the vegetables are tender.

Stir in the garbanzos and spices. Then gently stir in the cooked couscous. Cook until hot, about 8 minutes. (Or spoon intoa large casserole, dot with butter and heat in a 350 degree oven until hot, about 15 minutes. Garnish with the parsley before serving. Makes 4 servings.


MEXICAN POTATO CAKE

For the vegetable layer:
3 T. oil
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
8 medium white mushrooms, cut lengthwise into 1/4 inch thick slices
2 medium zucchini, cut in half lengthwise and then crosswise at 1/4 inch intervals
1 large poblano chili, cored, halved lengthwise, and cut into 1/4 inch slices
2 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp. salt
freshly ground black pepper

For the potato layer:
2 pounds potatoes
2 T. unsalted butter cut into thin pats
1 cup milk
2 eggs, beaten
1 3/4 to 2 tsp. salt
freshly ground black pepper
a dash of grated nutmeg

a little butter for greasing
3 tablespoons dry bread crumbs

To make the vegetables, put the oil in a large heavy pan or wok and set over high heat. When hot, put in the onion. Stir and fry for 1 minute. Put in the mushrooms. Fry for another minute. Put in the zucchini and chili and stir fry for 4 to 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, stir and fry for another 5 to 6 minutes, or until all the vegetables are cooked through. Add the salt and pepper and stir to mix and turn off the heat.

Scrub the potatoes, and put them in a pot with water to cover. Boil and, when done, peel them while they are still hot and mash them coarsely with the butter. Beat in the milk and then the eggs, salt, pepper to taste, add the nutmeg. Beat until smooth.

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Butter a 4-cup souffle dish or baking dish and dust it well with 2 T. of the bread crumbs. Divide the mashed potato into 3 parts and the vegetables into 2 parts. Line the bottom of the souffle dish evenly with a layer of the potatoes, top that with a layer of vegetables and then potatoes, until all layers are used up, ending with potatoes. Dust the top with the remaining 1 T. bread crumbs. Put the dish in the top third of the preheated oven and bake for 40 minutes. Serves 6.


CORN WITH ZUCCHINI

Cut 3 small trimmed zucchini in half lengthwise, thinly slice crosswise, and set aside. Heat 4 T. olive oil or butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 1 small chopped peeled yellow onion and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, 2-3 minutes. Add sliced squash and cook stirring often, until just soft, 6-8 minutes. Add 3 cups fresh corn kernels, from about 3 ears shucked corn, and cook, stirring often, until soft, about 5 minutes more. Add chopped leaves from 4 sprigs fresh parsley and season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Serves 4 to 6.


KARI'S GREEN BEANS with CHEESE SAUCE

I used to work for this woman named Kari. We didn't get along very well, but I did love the way she cooked these beans.

Boil 1 to 2 lbs. green beans until very tender. Meanwhile, make cheese sauce:

4 T. butter
4 T. flour
2 cups warm milk
salt and pepper
1 cup grated cheddar

In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, melt butter until it foams and then stops foaming. Add flour, stirring all the time, and cook until mixture takes on a foamy quality -- don't let it brown, adjust heat if necessary.
Add milk all at once and whisk well. Turn heat up to medium high and cook, stirring constantly, until sauce begins to simmer. Reduce heat and let simmer for at least five minutes, stirring often. Sauce should be thick.
In small handfuls, add cheese, stirring well after each addition, until cheese is melted into sauce. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Drain beans and stir them into sauce. Check seasoning and serve. Serves 4 to 8.
(White Trash Disclaimer: The truth here is that she didn't actually make a cheese sauce. She cooked the beans down until almost all the liquid was gone. Then she took big slabs of Velveeta cheese and threw them in with the beans, and when the cheese was melted, she sprinkled copious amounts of black pepper over it. It was very good. I'm not going to tell you which way I make them now, but it is true that sometimes I have Velveeta issues.)


MARINATED CARROT STICKS

1/4 pound carrots
1 garlic clove
1/4 tsp. dried oregano
salt
black pepper
1 T. red wine vinegar
extra virgin olive oil

Clean the carrots, peel them if you want, and cut them into 2-inch lengths. Cook them in boiling water for about 10 minutes or until tender but still firm.

Drain and cut the carrots lengthwise into sticks about 1/4 inch thick. Place in a small, but deep, serving dish.

Mash the garlic clove with a heavy knife or the bottom of a heavy skillet, crushing it just enough to split it and to loosen the skin, which should be removed and discarded. Bury the garlic clove among the carrot sticks. Add the oregano, salt, a few grindings of pepper, the vinegar, and just enough olive oil to cover the carrots.

If serving them the same day, allow the carrots to steep in their marinade for at least 3 hours at room temp. If making them for another day, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until 2 hours before serving, allowing them to come to room temperature before bringing it to the table. If keeping for longer than a day, remove the garlic after 24 hours


CUCUMBER GAZPACHO

2 lb cucumbers, peeled
1 1/2 yellow or red bell peppers, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 1/2 fresh jalapeno chilis, seeded and minced
1 large garlic clove, minced
3 T. fresh lime juice
3/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
3/4 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Seed cucumbers and put seeds in a blender. Cut cucumbers into 1/4-inch dice and combine with bell peppers, chilis, garlic, and lime juice in a large metal bowl.

Transfer half of mixture to blender with seeds and puree until smooth. Return puree to bowl and stir in remaining ingredients.

Quick-chill soup in a bowl set in a larger bowl of ice and cold water, stirring frequently, until cold, about 20 minutes.

Makes about 5 1/4 cups.


CORN, TOMATO AND BASIL SALAD

6 large ears white corn, husked
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1/2 cup (packed) thinly sliced fresh basil
5 plum tomatoes, seeded, chopped
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar


Using a large knife, cut corn kernels from cob. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add corn and saute until just cooked through, stirring, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic; saute for another minute, stirring. Remove from heat. Add half of basil.

Transfer corn mixture to large bowl. Cool slightly, stirring occasionally. Stir in tomatoes, vinegar, three tablespoons oil and remaining basil. Season with salt and pepper. Cover; chill three hours or up to eight hours.

Makes 6 servings.


TOMATO, ONION AND POTATO GRATIN

1 medium yellow onion
2 1/2 pounds potatoes
1 1/2 pounds tomatoes
2 cloves garlic
salt and pepper
1 T. chopped thyme leaves
3 T. olive oil
2 T. white wine
1 1/2 cups stock (chicken or vegetable)

You'll need a 9-inch square or oval gratin or baking dish with 2-inch sides. Peel the onion, cut it in half lengthwise and slice it as thinly as possible. Slice the potatoes 1/8 inch thick, and hold in cold water until ready to use.

Cut out the stem end of the tomatoes and slice them 1/8 inch thick. Peel the garlic and slice thinly.

Preheat oven to 375 F. Lightly oil the gratin dish and put the onion slices evenly over the bottom. Season with salt and pepper. Drain the potatoes and arrange half of them over the onions, overlapping like shingles. Season with salt and pepper and half of the thyme.

Make a layer of the tomato slices on top of the potato slices, salt and pepper them, and sprinkle with the rest of the thyme and the garlic slices.

Finish with a final layer of overlapping potatoes and more salt and pepper. Drizzle with the olive oil and white wine, and add enough stock to come two thirds of the way up the sides of the gratin. (You might need to add more liquid later).

Cover with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Uncover and press down on the mixture, flattening it to ensure that the top layer of potatoes is moistened. Leave uncovered and return the gratin to the oven. The liquid will emulsify somewhat while it cooks. Bake uncovered for another 40 minutes, or until a knife pierces through easily and the top is golden brown. Serve either warm or at room temperature.

Serves 6 to 8.


CUCUMBER, MANGO and RED ONION SALAD

Peel and thinly slice cucumbers, mango, and sweet red onion -- roughly the same amount of each, or thereabouts. Season to taste with freshly squeezed lime juice and salt, and garnish generously with cilantro leaves. Try it over grilled salmon.


CUCUMBER RAITA

2 cucumbers
salt
2 cups yogurt
1 pinch cayenne

Cut the cucumbers in half lengthwise, and cut into small dice or thin slices. Salt them, and fold them into the yogurt. And the cayenne and more salt if needed. Makes 3 to 4 cups. Serve with spicy foods.


FRENCH POTATO SALAD

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 shallots, finely minced
1 1/2 pounds small new potatoes, scrubbed
1/4 cup very good quality red wine or sherry vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
small handful of fresh parsley

Combine the oil and shallots in a small bowl and set aside, let marinate together for at least 30 minutes.

Cook the potatoes in plenty of salted water until just tender. Meanwhile whisk the vinegar into the oil and shallot mix. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Drain the potatoes. As soon as they are cool enough to handle but still warm, cut into thin, even slices. Toss with the vinaigrette and sprinkle with the parsley. Serve warm or at room temp. Serves four.


GRATIN DAUPHINOIS

2 pounds potatoes
2 cups cream or 1/2 and 1/2
1/2 cup swiss cheese, shredded
2 eggs
salt, pepper, nutmeg
butter

Equipment:
1 10-inch (approximately) casserole dish
1 12-inch or larger baking pan

Wash and slice the potatoes. Mix the eggs, cream, salt, pepper, and nutmeg together.

Butter the 10-inch pan. Layer the potatoes in the pan, overlapping each slice. Cover this with a layer of cheese. Pour the egg mixture over top. Dot the top with dabs of butter.

Bake at 350 degrees "bain marie" style: Place 10-inch pan inside the larger pan. Fill the larger pan with up to 1 inch of boiling water. This will help prevent the cream-egg mixture from overcooking.

The dish is ready when all of liquid in the potatoes pan is absorbed, and the top of the gratin is golden brown.
Serves 4-6


OVEN ROASTED FISH and POTATOES

Thick fillets of tilefish, monkfish, red snapper, or cod work well in the recipe.

1 pound potatoes, cut into 1/8-inch-thick slices
1 and 1/2 pounds 1-inch-thick fish fillets with skin on
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
4 thin slices of lemon
1 bay leaf, broken in half
4 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
4-5 sprigs fresh thyme
1 small onion, sliced
1/4 cup fino (dry) sherry
1 large vine-ripened tomato (about 1 cup)
1 cubanelle (sweet frying) pepper, cored, seeded and cut into rings
salt and pepper

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Rinse and drain potatoes. Spread half of the sliced potatoes in the bottom of lightly oiled shallow 3-quart baking dish. Scatter garlic, parsley, onion, tomatoes and peppers on top and season with salt and pepper. Finish with the remaining potatoes. Pour 1 cup of water over the mixture and cover with foil. Bake for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, season fish with salt and pepper and make 4 to 5 slashes on each side of the fillet. Let stand 10 minutes.

After the potatoes have baked for an hour, raise the oven temperature to 425 degrees F. Remove the baking dish from the oven. Nestle the fish, skin-side down, into the bed of potatoes and vegetables. Lay the lemon slices on top and drizzle with the oil. Tuck the bay leaf and sprigs of thyme under the fish and return the dish, uncovered, to the oven's uppermost rack. Bake for about 15 minutes, until the fish flesh is opaque. It's not necessary to turn the fish in the pan. The surrounding potatoes should be crusty and browned.

Spoon sherry over the fish and return to the oven for 2 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Serve directly from the baking dish. Serves 4


FENNEL SALAD

1 fennel bulb
salt
extra virgin olive oil
black pepper, freshly ground

Trim the fennel and cut it into very thin slices, soak it in two or three changes of cold water, and dry it thoroughly in paper towels or in a salad spinner.
Toss in a serving bowl with salt, enough oil to coat it well and lots of freshly ground black pepper.
Serves 4


GRATIN of FENNEL in TOMATO SAUCE

2 cups tomato sauce
2 pounds fennel bulbs, outer stalks removed, trimmed, split in two,
parboiled in salted water for about 10 minutes and then drained
Pepper
Dried bread crumbs
2 tablespoons olive oil

Preheat the oven to 350 F.
Spread a thin layer of tomato sauce in the bottom of a large gratin dish, and arrange the fennel halves on top, split sides down. Grind pepper over the fennel, cover evenly with tomato sauce, sprinkle generously with the bread crumbs, dribble with a thin thread of olive oil back and forth across the surface, and bake for 40 minutes, or until the crumbs are golden.


BREAD SALAD with TOMATOES, CUCUMBERS, FENNEL and CELERY

4 1-inch-thick slices of good hearty bread
1 red onion, finely sliced, and soaked in cold water for 1 to 2 hours
2 ripe tomatoes, finely sliced
1 cucumber, peeled and finely sliced
2 ribs celery, finely sliced
1 bulb fennel, quartered and finely sliced
1 sweet red pepper, ribs and seeds removed, finely sliced
1 handful radishes, finely sliced
2 handfuls of small black olives
About 12 fresh basil leaves, roughly torn
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste (lots is good)

Soak the slices of bread in cold water to cover until moist but mushy. Squeeze the bread to remove the extra water ? it should still hold its shape ? and then tear it into small chunks. Put the bread in a large bowl and add the onion, tomatoes, cucumber, celery, fennel, pepper, radishes, olives, and basil leaves. Mix the vinegar with the oil, add salt and pepper, and pour over the salad. Serve at room temp. Serves 4.


POTATO and GREEN BEAN SALAD with LEMON

New Potatoes
Green Beans
minced onion to taste
one or two lemons, to taste
olive oil
salt and pepper

Steam or boil potatoes. Set aside. Steam or boil green beans and set aside. Meanwhile, mince onions, grate the zest (just the thin outside yellow bit of skin and none of the white "pith" underneath) of the lemon and
then squeeze the juice into a bowl. Whisk into the lemon juice about 4 times as much olive oil as you have
juice, and taste. If it's still too tangy for your tastes, add more oil until it's as smooth tasting as you like it. Season with salt and pepper. Toss potatoes, green beans, onions and lemon zest together with the lemon juice dressing. Serve warm or at room temperature.


POTATOES and GREEN BEANS with PESTO and PASTA

3/4 to 1 lb. small new potatoes
1/2 pound green beans
1 1/2 pounds pasta
Pesto

Boil or steam the potatoes and set aside. Same with the green beans. Cook the pasta (spaghetti or fettuccine is preferred). When you drain the pasta, set aside about 1/2 a cup of the pasta's cooking water. Add about 2 tablespoons of the cooking water to the pesto and toss the pesto with the potatoes, beans and pasta. If it seems too dry, add more of the water to taste. Serve immediately.


OLERON RASPBERRY TART
from Tender at the Bone by Ruth Reichl

pastry:
1 1/2 cups sifted all-purpose flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/4 pound sweet butter
2 tablespoons cream
1 egg yolk

Put flour and sugar into a bowl. Cut the butter into small squares and add to flour-sugar mixture. Toss with your fingers until butter is coated with flour, and then rub until the mixture resembles cornmeal.

Add cream to egg yolk and pour into flour mixture. Mix lightly with a fork until pastry holds together in a small ball. If not moist enough, add a tablespoon or so of water to bring it together.

Sprinkle some flour across a counter and place pastry on flour. Push the dough with the heel of your hand until it has all been worked through. Gather into a ball, wrap in plastic wrap, and let rest in refrigerator 3 hours.

Remove and allow to warm for about 10 minutes. Sprinkle more flour onto counter. Flatten ball into a disk and roll out into an 11-inch circle. Fit gently into an 8- or 9-inch tart pan with a removable bottom. Press into pan gently, being careful not to stretch the dough; trim off edges, and put into freezer for 10 minutes until firm.

Preheat oven to 350 F, Line tart shell with aluminum foil or parchment paper and fill with dried beans. Bake for 20 minutes. Remove aluminum foil and beans and cook 4-5 minutes more, until
golden.

Remove from oven and allow to cool while making filling.

filling:
3/4 cup blanched almonds
3/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons butter, softened
3 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 cups raspberries

Put almonds and 3 tablespoons of the sugar in food processer and grind to a fine powder.

Cream butter with remaining sugar. Add egg yolks, stirring until smooth. Add ground almond-sugar mixture and vanilla extract. Spread almond cream into bottom of prebaked tart shell.

Carefully cover the tart with 2 cups of the raspberries.

Sprinkle with 2 teaspoons of sugar bake at 350 F. for about 40 minutes. Remove from oven and cool for 2 hours.

Just before serving, cover the top of the tart with remaining 2 cups of berries. If you like you can melt 2 tablespoons of currant jam with 1 tablespoon of water in a pan, allow to cool, and then brush the glaze over the berries. I, personally, don't usually bother with it.


MASHED RED POTATOES

3/4 pound small red bliss potatoes, quartered
12 whole roasted garlic cloves
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons butter
Salt and freshly-ground black pepper
1 tablespoon chopped green onion, for garnish

In a saucepan cover unpeeled potatoes with cold water and bring to a boil. Cook just until tender -- do not overcook or potatoes will be watery. Drain well, return pan with potatoes to low heat and shake to dry. Squeeze in garlic cloves, cream, butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Mash together with a potato masher until ingredients are combined but potatoes are still lumpy.


ZUCCHINI PESTO

1 cup (packed) fresh basil leaves
1/4 cup walnuts (1 ounce), toasted
2 garlic cloves
3 small zucchini (about 9 ounces), trimmed, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 cup (packed) freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 green onion, chopped
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil
Assorted raw vegetables

Blend basil, walnuts and garlic in processor or blender until finely chopped. Add zucchini, Parmesan cheese and greed onion; process until coarsely chopped. Add oil. Using on/off turns, process until mixture is finely chopped. Season pesto to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to bowl. (Can be prepared 2 days ahead. Press plastic wrap onto surface of pesto and refrigerate.) Serve with assorted raw vegetables.


MARINATED ZUCCHINI AND GREEN BEAN SALAD

1 lb trimmed zucchini
1/2 lb. green beans
1 T. finely chopped fresh dill
1/4 cup chopped scallions
1 cup sliced white mushrooms
1/3 cup white wine vinegar
1/3 cup olive oil
salt
freshly ground black pepper

Bring two quarts of water to a boil.

Clean and snap the green beans into bite-sized pieces. Cut the zucchini into sticks about the same size as the green beans.

Blanch the vegetables in the boiling water just until they turn bright green and are tender-crisp (start testing at 1 minute). Drain and put them in a bowl.

Add the dill, scallions and white mushrooms. Toss. Add the vinegar and olive oil. Toss. Season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Serves 4.


MARRAKESH ZUCCHINI SALAD

4-5 small zucchini (about a lb.)
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp paprika
2 T. fresh lemon juice
2 T. white vinegar
1 T. olive oil

Bring 2 qts of water to a boil. Slice the zucchini into thin rounds and blanch them until tender-crisp (about 1 minute).
Drain and rinse under cold water. Mix together the remaining ingredients, season with salt and pepper and mix in the zucchini. Serve at room temperature.


"THAI" SALAD with SOBA NOODLES

1 package soba noodles
soy sauce
toasted sesame oil
3-4 tomatoes
4 cucumbers
1/2 an onion
scallions
1 bunch cilantro
3 limes
2 T. Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce (optional)
2 T. sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
2 cups shelled spanish peanuts, left whole or coarsely chopped

Boil 1 package soba noodles, rinse well with cold water, toss with a generous dash or two of soy sauce and plenty of toasted sesame oil, to taste. Set aside.

Cut tomatoes into bite-sized wedges, put into large bowl. Peel and thinly slice the cucumbers and add to the tomatoes. Slice the onion very thinly, add to cucumbers and onions. Chop the white and the tender part of the green bit of the scallions, and chop the cilantro ? add all to the cucumber
mix. Squeeze the juice from the limes into a different bowl, add fish sauce, sugar and salt, mix well and taste for a comfortable balance between tart and sweet. Pour over cucumber mix and toss, taste again for balance, adding more sugar if needed.
Divide noodles between 4 plates, top with cucumber/tomato salad, and plenty of peanuts. Serves 4.

Variation: Add minced jalapeno or serrano chile pepper to the salad with the cucumbers.


CAESAR TOFU SALAD

4 cloves fresh garlic
2 anchovy fillets (optional), or a generous squeeze of anchovy paste
4 Nicoise olives, pitted
2 T. dijon mustard
8 ounces firm tofu
2 lemons, juiced
1 cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Fresh crisp head lettuce, such as Romaine, for 4 large salads

This recipe is most easily accomplished with a food processor but I'll provide directions for mixing it by hand, as well.

1. The food processor method: Coarsely chop the garlic and combine it in the bowl of the food processor with the anchovies, olives and mustard. Puree. Add the lemon juice and tofu. Mix thoroughly. With the machine running, drizzle in the olive oil in a slow but steady stream, and season to taste with salt and pepper.

2. By hand: Mince the garlic quite fine and then mash it to a paste by sprinkling it with a bit of coarse salt (kosher is best for this), and drawing the flat side of a heavy chefs knife over the minced garlic, exerting pressure downward on the broad of the blade. Then scoop the garlic back into a neat pile and repeat the process, until the garlic is a nice cohesive mash. Taste it. It tastes different than if it's just been minced -- smoother and more transcendently garlicky. Congratulate yourself for not having a food processor to do this in, because you won't get that flavor by bashing it with the blades of a Cuisinart.

Next, chop the olives quite fine, set aside. Cube the tofu and mash it vigorously. Set aside.

In a large bowl, dissolve the anchovy fillets in the lemon juice. Add the garlic, olives and mustard and whisk very well. Add the tofu and whisk until well blended and just as smooth as you can reasonably get it. Then go get a damp towel, fold it up into a foot-wide square and rest the bowl on top of that to keep it from sliding around.

Start drizzling in the olive oil, slowly, and whisking. Whisking whisking whisking. Whisk and drizzle until all the olive oil is in the dressing and the mix is well homogenized. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Toss the greens with the dressing and serve with garlicky croutons and cracked black pepper.


KOREAN SCALLION PANCAKES

For this recipe you'll need a large flat-bottomed skillet. Most practical is one of those big flat electric griddles that they sell at Fleet Farm for making Lefse (and pancakes, too, I suppose). Best is the top of an old woodstove ... but any old big flat griddle will do. Check before you start to see how many of the scallions will fit easily in the pan and if you'll need to do this in two batches.

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 egg, beaten
3 tbsp. soy sauce
2 tsp. rice vinegar*
2 tbsp. vegetable oil
1 bunch scallions, trimmed and halved lengthwise
1/2 small red bell pepper, stemmed, cored, seeded, and sliced into thin strips

Put the flour, salt and pepper in a medium sized mixing bowl and mix it all together with your hand. Gradually stir in 3/4 cup of water, whisking until smooth. Then whisk in the egg. Don't overbeat, but do mix until the egg is uniformly integrated. It should be like a pancake batter.
Let the batter rest, covered for half an hour or so while you clean and cut the vegetables.

Mix together the soy sauce and rice vinegar -- the dipping sauce -- and set aside in a small bowl. Espresso cups or dainty tea cups are nice for dipping sauce, if you have them. Deep saucers (or what my grandma called applesauce dishes) are good too.

Heat the oil in the skillet over medium high heat. Arrange the scallions in a single layer in the center of the skillet and pour or spoon three-fourths of the batter over and around the scallions. Layer the peppers in a single layer over the scallions and put the remaining batter over the peppers.

Cook the pancake until golden on the bottom -- three or four minutes probably -- then flip the pancake either by using two spatulas (which I find to be very awkward, but some people are good at it) or by putting a plate over the pan, turning the pancake over onto the plate and then sliding the pancake back into the pan. Lower the heat and cook until the pancake is cooked through, four to five minutes or more.

Cut the cake into wedges and serve with the sauce.

This method works well with all kinds of other vegetables and meats. It's a nice way to treat tiny harvests or little scraps of things left in the fridge. Experiment with different flours, too. Buckwheat is very nice.

Serves 4.

*Rice vinegar is preferred here because of its delicate flavor. If you have to use other vinegar, you may want less of it. Taste as you go.


ROSEMARY ROASTED POTATOES

At least a few hours before you intend to start dinner, scrub and trim your potatoes. Spread them out in a single layer on a towel and let them dry thoroughly. Or, if you're in a rush, scrub them and dry them with a towel or hair dryer. But they must be absolutely dry for this recipe, otherwise they don't really roast, they just steam.

You'll need a large roasting pan, large enough to hold all the potatoes in a single layer.

Once the potatoes are clean and dry, cut any large potatoes into pieces roughly equal the size of the small potatoes so that everything cooks evenly. Toss them in 1/4 cup of olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste (season them generously) and spread them out in the pan. Tuck in several branches of fresh rosemary (or thyme or summer savory or marjoram) and roast the whole mess in a 350 degree oven for about an hour (checking after 30 minutes if the potatoes are very small).

Variations: You may roast these in the same pan with a chicken or roast, adding roughly an hour before the meat is supposed to be done.
You might want to add other vegetables to the mix, too. Carrots, onions, sweet potatoes, green beans ...

Check seasoning and serve.

FETTUCCINE WITH BROCCOLI

2 T. chopped walnuts
1 pound dried fettuccine
3 T. extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 pounds broccoli, cut into florets, stems trimmed and cut into bite-sized pieces
4 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
crushed red pepper flakes, to taste
salt and pepper
1 T. butter
1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese, plus more for passing at the table

Put a big kettle of water on to boil over the highest heat. It should have at least four quarts of water in it, and preferably five. Having lots of water in the pot is the only thing that reliably keeps pasta from sticking to itself as it cooks.

In a large skillet, toast the walnuts over medium heat, shaking the pan often, until the nuts are golden. This won't take long! I burn nuts all the time by turning my back on them. So be vigilant!
Then dump the nuts out onto a plate to cool.

When the water is boiling, add a big generous pinch -- at least a tablespoon -- of salt to the pot and add the pasta. Cover the pot briefly to bring it back to a vigorous boil, but be ready to remove the cover quickly so it doesn't boil over. Cook the pasta until it's still got a bit of bite to it, but is no longer pasty and hard. Dip out and save a half cup or more of the water that the pasta is cooking in and drain the pasta.

While the pasta is cooking, heat about two-thirds of the oil in the skillet that you toasted the nuts in, and add the broccoli. Cover and cook over medium heat until the broccili is browned on the bottom -- five minutes or more. Stir, then add the remaining oil, the garlic and hot pepper. Season with salt and pepper to taste and cook, stirring, just until the garlic is fragrant -- only a scant minute or so. Remove from heat and cover.

Put the pasta into a large, warm bowl and toss with the butter. Add the broccoli and maybe half a cup of the reserved pasta water and toss well. Sprinkle with the nuts and cheese and serve, passing more cheese at the table.

Serves 4.


NAPA CABBAGE, KOHLRABI AND TOFU SALAD WITH SESAME DRESSING
Adapted from a recipe by Deborah Madison

This is kind of a fussy recipe, with a bit of work, but it's very nice for special occasions.

Dressing:
1 T. fresh ginger, minced
1 large garlic clove, minced
1/2 large jalapeno*, seeded and chopped
1 T. plus 1 tsp. tahini
1 T. toasted sesame oil
1 T. vegetable oil (preferably sunflower seed oil)
2 T. soy sauce
2 T. rice vinegar
1/2 tsp. light brown or raw sugar
3 T. chopped cilantro (or more to taste)
1 T. chopped fresh mint
salt and pepper to taste

Salad:
salt
1 pound of soft tofu, drained and cut into 1-inch cubes
4 cups of finely shredded Napa cabbage
2 cups spinach leaves, layered on top of themselves, then rolled into cigar shapes and cut crosswise into thin strips (this is a chiffonade cut, in classical cooking)
1 cup finely shredded red cabbage
1 medium kohlrabi peeled and cut into matchsticks
5 large radishes, sliced into thin rounds
1 large carrot, cut into thin matchsticks or shaved into thin curls with a vegetable peeler
freshly ground pepper
1 T. black sesame seeds or toasted white sesame seeds, for garnish.

You may make the dressing up to two days beforehand, and keep it in the refrigerator. But bring it to room temp before serving, for the flavors to be fully appreciable.

To make the dressing: Combine all the ingredients except for the cilantro, mint, salt and pepper, in a blender or food processor, and puree until smooth (or just whisk them vigorously until emulsified). Transfer to a bowl and stir in the cilantro and mint. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

To make the salad: Bring a medium saucepan half-full of water to a gentle simmer. Add a pinch of salt. Put half of the tofu into a small strainer and ease it into the water, and simmer for two minutes. Remove tofu to paper towels to drain. Repeat with the other half of the tofu.

There are a few ways to serve this salad. For a formal, special occasion, compose the ingredients on a large platter, separately, with the tofu in the middle, and pour the dressing over the tofu only. Garnish with sesame seeds and serve.
You could let the people put together their own salads from the platter or you could make a big show at the table of tossing all the ingredients together, after everyone has sat down, and then let them have at it.
Or you could compose the ingredients on individual plates in the same fashion, and they could toss their own.
Or you could toss the cabbages and spinach with some of the dressing and use that as a bed for the rest of the ingredients, on a large platter, passing the rest of the dressing on the side.
Or you could just skip the whole show, and mix it together in the kitchen in a big bowl and serve it family style.
Either way, don't toss the salad until just before you're ready to eat or it will get wilty and unattractive.

Serves 8.

*I've had lots of trouble this year finding jalapenos that have any bite to them. So take a taste and add accordingly. I've brought home so many heatless peppers this year, that I've actually taken to puncturing them with my fingernail right at the grocery store and then waiting to feel the slight burn on my skin that peppers impart. Shame on me, I know.


CUCUMBER GAZPACHO

2 lb cucumbers, peeled
1 1/2 yellow or red bell peppers, cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 1/2 fresh jalapeno chilis, seeded and minced
1 large garlic clove, minced
3 T. fresh lime juice
3/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro
3/4 cup sour cream
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Seed cucumbers and put seeds in a blender. Cut cucumbers into 1/4-inch dice and combine with bell peppers, chilis, garlic, and lime juice in a large metal bowl.

Transfer half of mixture to blender with seeds and puree until smooth. Return puree to bowl and stir in remaining ingredients.

Quick-chill soup in a bowl set in a larger bowl of ice and cold water, stirring frequently, until cold, about 20 minutes.

Makes about 5 1/4 cups.

CORN, TOMATO AND BASIL SALAD

6 large ears white corn, husked
5 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
1/2 cup (packed) thinly sliced fresh basil
5 plum tomatoes, seeded, chopped
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Using a large knife, cut corn kernels from cob. Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add corn and saute until just cooked through, stirring, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic; saute for another minute, stirring. Remove from heat. Add half of basil.

Transfer corn mixture to large bowl. Cool slightly, stirring occasionally. Stir in tomatoes, vinegar, three tablespoons oil and remaining basil. Season with salt and pepper. Cover; chill three hours or up to eight hours.

Makes 6 servings.

TOMATO, ONION AND POTATO GRATIN

1 medium yellow onion
2 1/2 pounds potatoes
1 1/2 pounds tomatoes
2 cloves garlic
salt and pepper
1 T. chopped thyme leaves
3 T. olive oil
2 T. white wine
1 1/2 cups stock (chicken or vegetable)

You'll need a 9-inch square or oval gratin or baking dish with 2-inch sides. Peel the onion, cut it in half lengthwise and slice it as thinly as possible. Slice the potatoes 1/8 inch thick, and hold in cold water until ready to use.

Cut out the stem end of the tomatoes and slice them 1/8 inch thick. Peel the garlic and slice thinly.

Preheat oven to 375 F. Lightly oil the gratin dish and put the onion slices evenly over the bottom. Season with salt and pepper. Drain the potatoes and arrange half of them over the onions, overlapping like shingles. Season with salt and pepper and half of the thyme.

Make a layer of the tomato slices on top of the potato slices, salt and pepper them, and sprinkle with the rest of the thyme and the garlic slices.

Finish with a final layer of overlapping potatoes and more salt and pepper. Drizzle with the olive oil and white wine, and add enough stock to come two thirds of the way up the sides of the gratin. (You might need to add more liquid later).

Cover with foil and bake for 40 minutes. Uncover and press down on the mixture, flattening it to ensure that the top layer of potatoes is moistened. Leave uncovered and return the gratin to the oven. The liquid will emulsify somewhat while it cooks. Bake uncovered for another 40 minutes, or until a knife pierces through easily and the top is golden brown. Serve either warm or at room temperature.

Serves 6 to 8.